Which Contents Guage?
These vary from sleek single gauges to giant multiple 3x combinations. It is best to go for a single contents gauge and avoid the more expensive multiple combinations. This will not only save you money but combo's are far less streamlined, heavier and will drag along the bottom, bouncing off rocks and stirring up the silt. They will also far more easily catch things becoming trapped. Additional instruments can be wrist mounted where they can be easily read.
Things to consider:
Is the pressure gauge in "bar" not "psi"? (Bar is the UK standard, psi may be appropriate if you are based overseas.)Can I easily read what it says and is it luminous? Is the low-pressure zone marked to highlight that I'm starting to use my air reserve? (The first 50 bar is typically marked in red.) Is it made out of brass with a glass mineral face? Plastic faces can warp at greater depths and can give a false reading. (Normally in excess of 60 metres.) Is the hose the right length or too long or too short? Is it a digital gauge or an air integrated computer? Mechanical gauges have a proven history and do not need parts replaced, keep it simple. Is it bulky? Avoid contents gauges which also incorporate depth gauges, computers and compasses; separate wrist mounted alternatives are a better option. Rubber boots appear to offer guages an extra degree of protection from knocks and scrapes but they allow a build up of salt or grit on the inside of the case and particularly around the hose swivel connection, this build up cannot be readily seen and normal washing won't eliminate it unless you remove the boot every time.
The Oceanic is perfectly adequate for dives which fall within the normal recreational diving range. If your diving becomes more adventurous, then it should still be possible to use the plastic gauge on a Pony/Decompression Cylinder, so it won't necessarily go to waste if you should subsequently upgrade to a brass and glass gauge. |
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