Which Small (Back-up) Torch?
The first torch most people buy tends to be small and inexpensive. But after a few dives they discover that more is better, at least where light is concerned. Torches start at about £15 and go to £1500 if you want to get really silly. This section is concerned with the "smaller" purchases. A small pocket design can be ideal for poking in holes to see if anyone is at home but will be hopelessly inadequate for dark wreck dives. However, many divers with larger lights also carry a small light as a backup, so buying a small design first is not a waste if you chose well and it will give you the chance to see something in the dark if you are as yet unsure on the type of diving which you want to do.
Things to look for in a small torch:
Is it reasonably bright? A small, well-focussed beam is essential - if you only have a little light you need to put it where you want it. It will also help in signalling your buddy if you need to when a unfocused beam won't. Will it switch on and off easily even with cold, gloved hands? Can it be attached to a lanyard / clip? The best place for an attachment point is on the base. (Please see "How Do I Attach Things?" for additional information.) Are the batteries easily replaced and easy to get hold of? Be wary of cheap batteries which will result in a reduced burn time. Can it be stored easily if it is later relegated to use as a backup light? How much are replacement bulbs? (They can be almost as much as the torch. Bulbs for HID lights can cost as much as £165!)How does it switch on? You need to make sure that it can't be switched on accidentally. It is a good idea to avoid "Physical switches" because they can sometimes be operated too easily; they usually need an extra hole in the casing, which may leak and are something else to go wrong.
A torch which turns on by twisting the head is the best idea BUT you do need to remember which is the right way!
Will it not switch on unless you want it to? Torches which switch on by turning the head may be turned on by ambient pressure if you haven't turned them off far enough. Generally the head needs to be twisted a further 180 degrees on the surface beyond the point the point at which the bulb goes out. Is the light "over-volted"? These lights use a higher voltage than the torch is designed to take, making it brighter but more susceptible to failure.If your torch has one and it isn't entirely necessary, you may be able to remove the components (left) and fill it with epoxy glue or epoxy putty.
Admittedly they shouldn't leak but you don't want to be at 60 metres, on the one occasion it fails.
When carrying a backup torch, if possible don't put it in a pocket. If it should be accidentally turned on and it is in plain sight, you or your buddy will be able to see it and turn it off. Otherwise you might one day come to use it and find the batteries are dead. See the attached link for a way to avoid using a lanyard in Which Attachments?
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The "Extreme Exposure Scout lights" (available from Underwater Explorers) are the best and by far the most expensive option. Lesser, but more cost-effective "entry-level" options include "Pelican Supa Sabre Lites" (available from Maplins or Pelilites4less) and "Sea and Sea's UK300" (available from any good dive shop). Most divers remove the sprung belt holder clip on the latter two options. The UK300 and Pelican also have pressure relief valves which should be glued up to prevent any possible water ingress (see above). A smaller option to consider might be the Princeton Tec 40 torch, for less demanding environments and run times. These are smaller than the above alternatives with consequently fewer batteries and reduced burn times. You can buy three to four of the other torches for every Extreme Exposure Scout Light, so it is worth considering what you "really" need for your diving. |
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